Skull Cross
Zambia & Cross Border Rentals
Through Zambia
Thankfully I have stocked up on petrol – prices are much higher this side of the Zambezi than in Namibia. Perhaps I should pick up paying passengers, taxi-style, like some other tourists appear to be doing. However, no-one is waiting for a lift when I set off. I am heading north for 400 kilometres, destination Liuwa: home to the Africa’s second largest migration of wildebeest. Every November 250 000 wildebeest fill the landscape in minutes.
Ngonyi Falls, Senanga, Mongu, Kalabo
A friend had raved about his journey to Liuwa but said it takes some dedication and effort to get there (which is probably why so few people know about the place). But with my 4×4 vehicle’s good ground clearance, transfer box and lockable differentials, I should be alright. The main highway is gravel and unpaved, which is great for practising my 4WD driving skills but is fairly tiring. Just over 120 km later, I arrive at the turnoff to the Ngonyi Falls, which are said to rival the Victoria Falls. There is no-one else there; I stand looking down at tons of water cascading over moon-shaped rocks, feeling the water thundering beneath my feet (the water runs underneath the rock). Refreshed by the break and inspired by the power of nature, I am ready to face the last 80 kilometres of sandy road to Senanga.
Thankfully the road from Senanga to Mongu is tarred and so I can travel more quickly. I overnight in Mongu and replenish my stores at the supermarket and petrol station. You have to take all your supplies with you to Liuwa, so the extra fuel and water tanks and other gear provided by Drive Africa come in handy. I cross the Zambezi by ferry and reach Kalabo where I obtain my entry permit from the National Parks and Wildlife Services. I also decide to hire a guide, although I have the GPS supplied by Drive Africa.
Liuwa
There are no other vehicles around when I enter Liuwa Nature Reserve – I feel like the first traveller in the wilderness. My guide points out the different types of buck: antelope, oribi and others I have never seen before, (and never in such quantities). A flock of cranes pass overhead and in the distance I see eagles soaring on the air currents. The game on the ground is unbelievable: zebra, eland, wild dog, cheetah and of course lions. This is the real Africa.
As we sit around the fire that evening, listening to the roar of lions and coughing of hyenas, I am relieved to be staying at a designated campsite and not out there in the bush. It is the remotest place I have ever been to in my life. A couple of days later, it’s time to leave: I have had enough of glorious isolation and my supplies are running low. In any case, I still have to travel across the borders to Zimbabwe, Mozambique, Swaziland, South Africa, Lesotho and Botswana!
Kaoma
I take a slow drive south along the Great West Road of Zambia that runs 610 km from Mongu to Lusaka, stopping to overnight in Kaoma, just under 200 kilometres away, a town where traditional Africa still rules. I have a solid day’s driving ahead of me: 400 kilometres from Kaoma to Mumbwa and then on to Kabwe, where I arrive very late in the afternoon. The town is off the tourist beat, which is not surprising given the state of the roads – sandy, full of potholes, so at times I struggle to get above 50 km/h.
Kabwe
Kabwe is the centre of Zambia and home to one of Zambia’s most celebrated early inhabitants: the Broken Hill man, a Neanderthal human whose 100,000 years old skull was discovered in 1921. In the centre of the town is a big tree where apparently early settlers used to congregate and relax. It’s is a typical town where everyone knows everyone else. That friendliness and hospitality extend to tourists; I am welcomed with smiles and people are eager to show me the way to a little hotel for the night.
Bangweulu and Luangwa
I spend the next day in Lusaka, stocking up and preparing for a two-week foray into the unbelievably rich national parks in the east and north of Zambia. I travel to the Bangweulu Swamps, past the Kasanka National Park and Chief Chitambo’s village (where Dr Livingstone’s heart is buried) to the wetlands. In contrast to the barrenness of Liuwa, the landscape at Bangweulu is lush – a watery wonderland teeming with herds of elephants and flocks of birds. I hope to catch a glimpse of the Shoebill, that illusive cousin of the pelican, but sadly don’t. However, the sight of such huge herds of elephants, flocks of birds and the usual multitude of buck goes some way to make up for it.
Leaving Bangweulu, I journey south to Luangwa, a must see on any travels to Zambia. Famed throughout the world, Luangwa is one of Africa’s greatest and unspoilt wildernesses. I take a break from driving and go on guided walking safaris, coming (almost) face to face with hippos, crocodiles, buffaloes, elephant and zebra galore. The lions prove elusive, until the last evening, when our guide leads us to a pride of lions enjoying the spoils of their hunting.
Lusaka
After all that wildlife, I feel that it’s time to leave my rustic paradise and head back to civilisation and Lusaka. After the isolation and tranquility of the bush, it’s a shock to the system to find myself in a busy city full of crazy drivers and pedestrians carrying huge loads on their heads. But, it’s good to take a hot shower and eat out in a restaurant after weeks on the road. I spend a couple of days in the city, stocking up on stores and having my 4×4 checked out.
And so it is with a sense of relief that I leave the bustling city behind and head south to Kariba, via Chirundu, and the much-anticipated Victoria Falls.
About the Author
Alex Jochheim: Writes for Drive Africa is a leading Car Rental Company in Cape Town South Africa, which specializes in 4×4 rentals, campervan, Cross Border Rentals, short-term rentals and long term car hire.
Skull and cross Bones … Sparkle Moore 1956
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Z1R NOMAD MARAUDER HELMET SKULL CROSS BONES XX-SMALL $84.95 |
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New Punk Men’s Skull Wing Cross Design Stainless Steel Pendant Chain Necklace 19 $4.08 |
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JOLLY REBELS CUSTOM CROSS & SKULLS CHROME 925 STERLING & BRASS HEARTS STYLE $175.00 |
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925 STERLING SILVER HUGE SKULL CROSS PENDANT CHARM NEW $39.90 |
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White Leather w/6 Skull Cross Bracelet Wristband Mens $0.99 |
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CHOPPER CROSS WITH SKULL BRONZE RING – OUTLAW BIKER 1%ER MC $19.99 |
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fashion golden Necklace heart Wish Skull Wing Peace Cross Bowknot Charm Pendant $0.99 |
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Brown Leather Steel Skull Cross Bracelet Wristband Cuff $0.99 |
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DOG CLOTHES Grey T Shirt BAD TO THE BONE Skull & Cross Bone w/ Cigarette XLARGE $17.99 |
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DOG CLOTHES Grey T Shirt BAD TO THE BONE Skull & Cross Bone w/ Cigarette XSmall $15.99 |
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DOG SHIRT Black BORN TO BE WILD Skull Rose Cross Bones & Angel Wings XLarge $18.99 |
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Cross Evil Skull Stainless Steel Mens Ring Size 8 9 10 11 12 R251 $0.99 |
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CHRISTIAN AUDIGIER JUNIORS SMET TANK TOP SHIRT CROSS SKULL NWT BLU ED HARDY $22.99 |
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CHRISTIAN AUDIGIER JUNIORS SMET TANK TOP SHIRT CROSS SKULL NWT BLU ED HARDY $22.99 |
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16 x Skull & Cross bone SHAPED NAPKINS Pirate Party $3.54 |
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Altar Box Cross Coffin Box Vampyre Vampire Coffin Box Casket Box Skull Gothic $22.95 |
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Classic Skull & Cross Bones Belt Buckle Pewter $12.99 |
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a38g Artful T-shirt Sz XL Foil Tattoo Skull Rose Cross Street Rock Biker Retro $9.99 |
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NEW Skull Cross Bones Gun Enameled Belt Buckle GU-013 $13.61 |
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Death Note Anime Series Skull & Cross 2 Piece Pin Set $9.99 |
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Men’s Chisel Skull and Cross Stainless Steel Necklace Chain $79.99 |
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SIMPLY DOG Puppy/Dog “SKULL & CROSS BONES” TANK TOP XS $9.50 |
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Biker Black Silver Stainless Steel Cross Skull Shackles Mens Ring Size 9 $0.99 |
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vp007 Vintage UNIQUE R&B”SKULL”Cross-Leather Chain 3IN1 $0.99 |
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36 Button Skull Cross Sewing Craft Appliques Black $5.20 |
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Tandy Leather Craftool 3d Skull Cross Stamp 8554-00 $3.28 |
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Men’s skull Amazing sward cross chain Pendant Necklace silver Stainless Steel $0.99 |
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Unisex Leather Six Skull Cross Bracelet Wristband Cuff $0.99 |
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Skulls Doing See No Evil Original Cross Stitch Pattern $5.99 |
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CROSS BONES AND SKULL DISTRESSED LOGO PUNK SKATER SUFER T- SHIRT $14.99 |
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Korean TOHOSHINKI DBSK TVXQ Hero Skull Cross Earrings ★ $15.00 |
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925 Sterling Silver SKULL CROSS Ring Size/Sz 9-dcjn $9.99 |
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Vintage Biker Black Silver Stainless Steel Skull Cross Mens Ring Size 8 $0.99 |
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NEW 3D White & Pink Skull & Cross Bones Cameo Pendant $5.89 |
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NEW SILVER PIRATES SKULL AND CROSS SWORD CUFFLINKS CL148 $0.01 |
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Vintage Biker Black Silver Stainless Steel Skull Cross Mens Ring Size 12 $0.99 |
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MEN’S Skull Cross Stainless Steel Pendant Necklace cool $0.99 |
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Jewelry Set Heart Wish Skull Wing Peace Cross Bowknot Necklace Stud Earrings $1.99 |
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Jewelry Set Heart Wish Skull Wing Peace Cross Bowknot Necklace Stud Earrings $1.99 |
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Jewelry Set Heart Wish Skull Wing Peace Cross Bowknot Necklace Stud Earrings $1.99 |
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Jewelry Set Heart Wish Skull Wing Peace Cross Bowknot Necklace Stud Earrings $1.99 |
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Jewelry Set Heart Wish Skull Wing Peace Cross Bowknot Necklace Stud Earrings $1.99 |
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Jewelry Set Heart Wish Skull Wing Peace Cross Bowknot Necklace Stud Earrings $1.99 |
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Jewelry Set Heart Wish Skull Wing Peace Cross Bowknot Necklace Stud Earrings $1.99 |
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Clear Crystal Cross Woven Black Howlite Turquoise Skull Beads Knitted Bracelet $2.99 |
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Pax I.NR.I. Cross Skull Bones Black light poster 1973 Third Eye Heart Eye Dove $199.99 |
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Crossed Paintball Guns With Skull WOMENS Shirt PICK $20.85 |
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Crossed Paintball Guns With Skull WOMENS Shirt PICK $20.85 |
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Crossed Paintball Guns With Skull WOMENS Shirt PICK $20.85 |
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Crossed Paintball Guns With Skull WOMENS Shirt PICK $20.85 |
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Crossed Paintball Guns With Skull WOMENS Shirt PICK $17.78 |
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Crossed Paintball Guns With Skull WOMENS Shirt PICK $17.78 |
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Crossed Paintball Guns With Skull WOMENS Shirt PICK $17.78 |
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Crossed Paintball Guns With Skull WOMENS Shirt PICK $17.78 |
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Crossed Paintball Guns With Skull WOMENS Shirt PICK $17.78 |
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Crossed Paintball Guns With Skull WOMENS Shirt PICK $17.78 |
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Crossed Paintball Guns With Skull WOMENS Shirt PICK $17.51 |
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Crossed Paintball Guns With Skull WOMENS Shirt PICK $17.51 |
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Crossed Paintball Guns With Skull WOMENS Shirt PICK $17.51 |
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Crossed Paintball Guns With Skull WOMENS Shirt PICK $17.51 |
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Crossed Paintball Guns With Skull WOMENS Shirt PICK $17.51 |
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Crossed Paintball Guns With Skull WOMENS Shirt PICK $17.51 |
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Crossed Paintball Guns With Skull WOMENS Shirt PICK $17.51 |
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Crossed Paintball Guns With Skull WOMENS Shirt PICK $17.51 |
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Crossed Paintball Guns With Skull WOMENS Shirt PICK $17.51 |
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Crossed Paintball Guns With Skull WOMENS Shirt PICK $17.51 |
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Crossed Paintball Guns With Skull WOMENS Shirt PICK $17.51 |
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Crossed Paintball Guns With Skull WOMENS Shirt PICK $17.51 |
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Crossed Paintball Guns With Skull WOMENS Shirt PICK $17.51 |
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Crossed Paintball Guns With Skull WOMENS Shirt PICK $17.51 |
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Crossed Paintball Guns With Skull WOMENS Shirt PICK $17.51 |
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Crossed Paintball Guns With Skull WOMENS Shirt PICK $17.51 |
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Crossed Paintball Guns With Skull WOMENS Shirt PICK $17.51 |
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Fred Bone Chillers Ice Cube Tray $2.18 New Bone Chillers Ice Tray. Chill your beverages to the bone! Fill and freeze the Bone Chillers tray and you’ll create an icy array of skulls and crossbones that will have everyone’s timbers shivering. Drink up, me hearties! Clear, peggable, recyclable display boxes. Tray makes 8 ice cubes. Flexible and easy to use. Freezer and refrigerator safe. Easy to wash. Perfect for parties! You and your gu… |
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Fox Run Pirates Treasure Cookie Cutter Set $6.29 This set has 5 tin cookie cutters in the shape of PIRATE ITEMS. Included are a Skull & bones, Pirate’s Hat, Treasure Chest, Gold Coin, and a Pirate Ship. Great fun for the whole family…. |
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Skull and Cross Bones Wall Mounted Classic Zinc Starr X Bottle Opener $5.95 … |
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Road Trips: Vol. 2, No. 2 – Carousel 2/14/68 (2 CD) $48.99 Not factory sealed, but in very good condition and DOES include bonus disc… |
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Road Trips: Vol. 2, No. 2 – Carousel 2/14/68 $49.99 Valentine’s Day, 1968 in San Francisco’s legendary Carousel Ballroom was an extraordinary experience, and it’s all captured here – as the first complete show in the Road Trips series. Thanks to a trusty 8-track tape machine, we can enjoy this magical performance that catches the band at a pivotal moment in the exploration of their own sound. It was a night where the band tried out all their newest… |
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Che/13 Crosses 16, Blazin Skulls/Goodbye Darling [Vinyl] $16.98 … |
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Skullduggery $1.99 … |
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11 Pirate Skull & Cross Bones Around Balloons (10 ct) [Toy] $3.00 10/Bag All Onyx Black With White Ink… |
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Prizm Tribal Black Tattoo Ink 1/2oz Bottle $2.00 Prizm Special Tribal Black 1/2 ounce bottle is the darkest shade of black in the Prizm ink line. It’s perfect for traditional tribal designs, outlining or filling in solid black pigment…. |
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Dozen Pirate Captain Cardboard Party Hats $4.84 An inexpensive hat to dress up your pirate costume. The hat features a pirate imprint on both sides. Made of cardstock paper. One size fits all. Size 14″ W…. |
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Skull on Cross $3.99 Skull on Cross Patch Small white skull on black cross trimmed in red. |
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Skull and Cross Bone Tights $5.99 Skull and Cross Bone Tights |
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Fire Cross Skull $10 Fire Cross Skull |
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Iron Cross Skull $6 Iron Cross Skull |
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Skull Cross $3.49 Skull Cross Vinyl Sticker Original artwork by Big Toe. Biker skull and cross. Size is approximate. Pop art, surrealism |
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Flame Cross Skull $2.99 Flame Cross Skull Vinyl Sticker A skull with a cross and flames behind it. |
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Large Skull with Cross $7.99 Large Skull with Cross Patch Large white skull on black cross trimmed in red |
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Iron Cross with Skull $3.99 Iron Cross with Skull Patch Black Label Society Iron Cross with a skull in the middles. |
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Bad Religion Skull Cross Button $2.99 BAD RELIGION SKULL CROSS BUTTON – ONE INCH |
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Skull and Cross Bones Slide Ball $3.99 Skull and Cross Bones Slide Ball (1) |
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Candlemass Skull And Cross Men’s T-shirt $20.99 SKULL AND CROSS – MEN’S T-SHIRT |
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36 Skull Cross Tombstone $28.99 36″ Skull Cross Tombstone has a skull in the center of the cross and “RIP” at the bottom. Tombstone is made of heavy foam and comes with 2 stakes. Measures approximately 20″ wide x 36″ high. |
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Candy Skull With Cross $4.99 Candy Skull With Cross Patch Quality embroidered patch featuring a skull covered in pink flowers with red roses for the eyes. There is a brown cross in the center of the forehead. Size is approximate. Day of the Dead, Dia de los Muertos, sugar skull. |
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German Skull $3.49 German Skull Vinyl Sticker Iron Cross Skull, vintage WW1, eeeek. |
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Flaming Skull $3.98 Flaming Skull Patch A red and orange flaming skull and cross bones |
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Skull and Crossbones $1.49 Skull and Crossbones Button Skull and crossbones with red cross in the background. |
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Flame Skull $3.99 Flame Skull Patch A skull and crossbones with a cross on forehead and flames behind it. |
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Skull and Cross Bones Confetti $3.99 Skull and Cross Bones Confetti features black and white skulls made of plastic. Package weighs approximately 1 oz. |
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Cross & Skull skin for DSi $14.99 Cross & Skull skin by Skinit.com. Fits DSi. View this and other covers, skins & case accessories at Skinit. |
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Skull & Cross Bones Face Paint Stamp $2.97 Features Skull & Cross Bones Face Paint Stamp |
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Chisel Stainless Steel Cross with Skull Necklace $59.99 Chisel Stainless Steel Cross with Skull Necklace |
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Skull and Cross Skull Hoodie dark by CafePress $45 Satanic Cross Skull T-shirt. Inverted Cross and Skull Tattoo Design with Barbed Wire. Classic Biker Skull Design Skull Hoodie dark Stay warm on the inside. Look oh-so-cool on the outside. Don this comfortable fleece sweatshirt for that dress-down BBQ — or your next dress-to-impress trip to the mall.10 oz. fleece blend 90% cotton/10% polyester. Fleece-lined hoo |
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Bling Skull Cross Rosary Necklace $12.5 This rosary style necklace features black beads with silver tone bling skull and cross pendants. |
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Cross & Skull skin for Palm Pre $14.99 Cross & Skull skin by Skinit.com. Fits Palm Pre. View this and other covers, skins & case accessories at Skinit. |